Just a short ferry ride from the bustling streets of Amsterdam, a couple of weeks ago, I found myself at a very special place:  Fortress Island Pampus. It’s a marvel of 19th-century engineering and an exemplar of a defensive strategy that relied as much on nature as it did on stone and steel. It’s a fascinating witness to the Dutch capital’s military past. But it isn’t a place stuck in the past. What surprised me most was how it simultaneously showcases a progressive approach to sustainability.